Italy 2007

Starting in May 2000, I was blessed to be able to travel to some amazing places with a group of UTM students and alumni. The trips were led by the fearless Stan Sieber. Mr. Sieber passed away recently. I'm going through all my old travel journals and transferring them from paper to an electronic medium. I'll store them on this blog as I find them and hopefully, I'll add some photos and hyperlinks along the way. Just reading my journals brings back some amazing memories. Stan will be so missed.

Italy 2007

March 8, 2007

We are in Venice! The flights were long and fairly uneventful.  The man sitting next to me on the flight to Amsterdam was on his way to Bahrain where he worked for the Navy.  He was very nice, especially considering the fact that the girl behind him (Chastity—more on her later) had her hole-y, sock-clad feet stuck in the back of his neck for the whole flight.  On the flight to Venice, I sat next to a very n ice Venetian woman who was roughly my age and is in the banking industry.  We talked to entire way and she said our itinerary looked great.

Jennifer’s bag was run over and basically destroyed.  The frame was so bent that a hole had formed in the bottom and you could see her jeans poking out.  Luckily, all her clothes and toiletries were ok.  The airline gave her a voucher to take to any of several stores for a replacement suitcase.  Once we cleared customs, we took a “water taxi” to our hotel.  It literally took us through the canals of Venice up to the back of our hotel.  Jennifer, Ashley Jacobs, and I had dinner at a little restaurant we found that was ironically run by two Japanese people.  We all had pizza.  The waiter kept singing (loudly & badly) with the Italian radio.  It was hilarious.  We walked through St. Mark’s Square which was all lit up and sparkling.  The gondolas made a slap-slap-slapping noise as they bobbed in the current.  Our hotel (Hotel Monaco) is directly across from Gucci! Ha!

The bad news of the day is that my noise machine is dead.  I tried to force it into a converter that obviously didn’t work and it caught fire (smoking & stinking) and burned up. I don’t know how I’m going to sleep without it.  I am so terrified that I won’t sleep after already being awake for 48 hours.  I am going to take an Ambien and hope for the best.

Oh, and Chastity is the emotionally needy, seriously annoying 30+ woman who has attached herself to Jennifer.


March 9, 2007

This morning, we had breakfast in the hotel where we were met by our tour guide “Sabino with the yellow pants.”  He showed us through St. Mark’s Square and the Doge’s (duke or “king” of Venice) Palace.  We toured the Bridge of Sighs -- a covered walkway where prisoners crossed either to the torture chambers (sigh of pain) or to their freedom (sigh of relief).  We went to the Murano glass factory where we watched one of the artisans “blow” and hand-shape first a beautiful vase/pitcher and then a figurine of a Tennessee walking horse.  Jennifer bought a set of Venetian wine glasses in the “special”
 red color unique to the region.  I got a little glass pendant on a chain.  We also went to St. Mark’s Cathedral, where the walls and ceilings were covered with beautiful mosaics.  We had lunch (a cheese panini for me) at an outdoor café overlooking gondolas on the Grand Canal.  After lunch, Ashley and I walked through the city all the way to the Rialto Bridge.  The weather was perfect with the beautiful buildings set against the sunny skies and blue-green water.  We also went up the elevator of the “campanile” (bell tower).  The panorama of the city was breathtaking.  Every view was that of a postcard.  We ended the evening with a boat ride on a large boat.  (3 boats for all 40 of us)  Then, Jennifer, Ashley and I had bellinis (peach juice, sparkling water, and vodka) at Harry’s Bar – Ernest Hemingway’s favorite drink at his favorite hang-out.  It cost E15, but it was worth it for the experience.  Then, we picked up sandwiches and a bottle of wine to take back to the hotel.  I just filled out some postcards and I’m ready for bed!


March 10, 2007

Today was our “free” day in Venice.  After breakfast, a small group gathered to walk together to the Accademia Gallery.  We saw many beautiful works of art by Giorgione (the Tempest), Veronese (Banquet in the House of Levi), Titan, Tintoretto, Carpaccio and more.  I think one of my favorites was Old Woman with a Bowl, but I can’t recall the artist.  The woman’s eyes were so expressive.  They seemed to glisten as if tears could fall at any moment.  After the Accademia, we began the “Foley” tour.  Dr. Foley had planned out an itinerary for himself and his wife, and Ashley, Jennifer, and I tagged along.  We walked to Campo Margherita, a square that was filled with native Venetians and the occasional tourist.  The children were playing with soccer balls or wearing roller blades while their parents ate at the café or shopped for fresh fish.  There were tons and tons of weird freshly-caught fish that still had their beady eyes and were still moving!  There were even eels in a bucket!  Next, we walked to Santa Maria Gloriosa.  Honestly, it paled in comparison to the cathedrals we saw in Spain.  However, there were lots of beautiful paintings, including Trittico by Bellini, a 3 panel picture that looks 3D but is actually flat.  Next, we went to another church—San Rocco—which was filled with canvases by Tintoretto.  The paintings covered every wall and even the ceiling.  The most famous was the Crucifixion.  We stopped at Billa, which is the Venetian Kroger.  It had rows and rows of fresh fruit, but it also had “American” brands of cereal like Special K.  The soft drinks were only 0.49E, which is amazing, since they are 3E at any café.  We stopped for a snack at a café.  I had a cappuccino but it was basically a tiny shot of liquid caffeine.  Mrs. Foley had an incredible cup of hot chocolate.  It was so thick that it slid off the spoon.  I tasted it.  It was like liquid jello pudding heated—YUMMY!  Our plan was to take the “vaporetto” (water bus) to the famous cemetery near the island of Murano.  We had to change boats a couple of times and didn’t get there until 3:45.  As soon as we stepped through the gates, the lady came over the loud speaker, saying “Closing time.  Kindly go out.”  So we hardly saw anything before taking the boat back.  Jennifer was going to replace her bag, but we found out that the only shops on her list of approved vendors were on the mainland, no where near us.  So, we called the phone number on the slip only to find that 1) the number had been changed and 2) their hours of customer service were 9am1pm M-F!  So, we went back to the room and banged the frame back into shape.  We had dinner at a little café where I had a half sandwich of ricotta cheese and spinach.  We capped off the evening with gelato—tiramisu flavored for Jennifer, hazelnut for Ashley, and chocolate chip for me.  We strolled through St. Mark’s Square indulging in our heavenly treats, surrounded by the twinkling lights.  It was fantastic!  Tomorrow, we have to leave our bags outside at 6:30am and be ready for the boat and bus ride, leaving at 7:45.  It’s going to be a long day, so I plan to sleep well tonight.

**Added:  On the Foley trip, we stopped by the gondola repair shop, the only one in Venice.  We walked over the “Fistfight Bridge”—Pugni—where there is a painting of a foot to signify where the fighting began.  We saw the floating fruit stand—Barnaba (on the Rio San Barnaba, one of the prettiest canals).


March 11, 2007

Today we left Venice and headed for Ravenna, known for its beautiful mosaics.  Our tour guide, Marina, led us to a basilica called San Vitale.  The outside was brick.  It was very pretty, but when you went inside, the art was overwhelming.  Part of the basilica was covered in frescoes from the 18th century.  It seemed completely mismatched next to the brilliant mosaics of the 6th century.  The mosaics depicted various scenes from the Bible, like Abraham and Isaac and the apostles.  The were made by layering three layers of limestone, then painting the pictures and finally layering the mosaics.  The only completed ½ m2 per day.  The main color was green to symbolize nature, but the gold seemed to glint in the light.  Ravenna was the last capital of the Western Roman Empire.  Galla Placcidia ruled from 425 to 450, after the death of her lazy brother Honorius.  (Her son was too young to rule.)  We walked out of San Vitale over to the mausoleum of Galla Placcidia.  (She isn’t really buried there.) Marina said it was her favorite because the plain exterior can’t prepare you for the beauty within.  The mosaics were incredibly, done mostly in deep blue with a gold cross at the top of the dome.  Ravenna has the same problem as Venice in that it is actually sinking.  They now have the ability to pipe the water out when it rises too high.  Marina dropped us off at the Café Mosaics for lunch.  I had grilled vegetables (eggplant, peppers, and squash) with pita bread while Jennifer had spaghetti bolognaise and Ashley had pizza.  We walked around the town a little bit but everything was closed because it’s Sunday.  We’re back on the bus bound for San Marino.  We arrived in San Marino and the republic was spectacular.  We drove up a step, winding road toward a castle that was perched on the edge of a cliff.  The castle was one of the three towers making up the Republic of San Marino, the smallest, oldest republic in the world, founded in the 4th century.  The republic is tiny, yet they have 60 members in parliament plus more in congress and they elect two new presidents every six months.  They are very independent and proud of their independent status, having only been occupied twice in history.  After the tour, Jennifer and I basically ran up the top of the mountain to visit the towers before sundown.  We climbed a rock wall for an amazing photo op.  Jennifer nearly tore her pants on the way back down.  We asked a man to take our picture, and I can’t wait to see it.  Ashley, Jennifer, and I headed to the first bar we could find for dinner.  Imagine our surprise when we found over half the group already there.  We had wine and beer.  I had a wonderful sandwich that was basically a spinach and cheese quesadilla.  We sat and talked for a long time. It was a great time.  Tomorrow, we head to Florence.

March 12, 2007

This morning, we drove through the Appenines Mts. to Lucca, a quaint little town with tiny, narrow streets.  Everyone was riding bicycles with no concern for the cars that were barreling through the intersections.  The first beautiful Romanesque church we passed was San Michele.  We didn’t go inside, but the outside was very pretty.  Lucca is the birthplace of the opera composer Puccini.  The church we went into was called San Martino or the “Duomo.”  The campanile was built before the church, so the church is somewhat asymmetrical.  There were several paintings by Tintoretto inside.  We grabbed lunch at a little café and ate it on the street before we caught the bus to Pisa.  Pisa was my favorite so far.  Our tour guide was a funny, gray-haired man who wore a black leather cap.  His name started with a B, but I couldn’t get all of it.  We visited the church first, where a lady sang a few notes that echoed back in harmony.  Next, we climbed the Leaning Tower f Pisa, one of the 7 wonders of the world.  It is actually angled at 82° and weighs 15,000 tons.  It had already begun leaning by the time they finished the 3rd story, but they kept going to 8 stories anyway!  The tour guide said it is still sinking at a rate of 1mm per year and if it continues, it will collapse by 2150.  (after he retires—haha!)  We climbed the stairs to the top for an incredible view of the city.  Naturally, I was in heaven, running around the top and stepping over the rail.  (Jennifer was terrified that I would kill myself. LOL)  We came down, bought some cheesy souvenirs and took some silly pictures of us “propping up” the tower.  We’re on our way to the hotel in Florence now.  Today has been my favorite day!



March 13, 2007

This morning, our tour guide met us in the lobby to take us on a guided tour of Florence.  We started at the Pitti Palace, home to the powerful Medici family.  When Maria Medici died, she left her extensive art collection to Florence so that people would come to see the city.  (We crossed over the famous Ponte Vecchio.)  Our tour guide droned on and on about every painting and stick of furniture until our group was ready to scream.  There were tons of amazing chandeliers.  Jennifer says her favorite part was the exit.☺  After Adriana finally let us out of the palace, we headed to an area where we rubbed a boar’s head for luck in finding a husband. Ha!  We went to the Accademia where we saw Michelangelo’s David.  Finally, we went back to the Duomo, a massive church made of pink, white, and green marble from Cordoba.  It also had stained glass windows by Donattello.  We visited the baptistery which had an amazing gold mosaic ceiling, depicting the life of Christ.  We saw the actual basilica which had huge arches and several paintings and frescoes.  Jennifer, Ashley, and I climbed the 414 steps to the top of the campanile.  Tomorrow, we plan to climb to the top of the Duomo. (463 steps!)  Dr. Foley whispered to me that an “elite” group was meeting tomorrow at 8am for the free day.  I felt so special!



March 14, 2007

This morning the “elite” group set off on our journey. (Stan & Sara, Mary Ellen & Ron, Ashley, me, Diane Shaw, Miriam (long hair), Lillie (sister), and Mary Margaret (wheelchair).  Jennifer went with the Austins to the science museum. (defector!) ☺We started with a trip to the market, a two-story, enclosed structure.  The bottom floor was all meat, including baby chickens with their heads still on!  Upstairs was a lots of fruit and vegetables.  Professor Shaw seemed to be as squeamish around the meat as I was, so we high-tailed it back outside where we shopped till we dropped.  I got a scarf for Granny and a necklace for Kacy, so I’m done with my “mandatory” shopping.  Next, we went to a church we thought was San Lorenzo but it turned out not to be.  We kept walking and finally found the San Lorenzo, but you have to have reservations!  Frustrated, we had lunch, where Ashley and I had our usual only this time it was named Popeye—cheese & spinach.  Finally, we went to the Church at Santa Crocé, where we saw the tombs of many famous people—Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Danté (who was later moved to Ravenna), Galileo, and Marconi (father of the radio).  The Foleys continued on, but we found Jennifer (actually, she found us) and we walked back to the hotel.  We met the group at the “fake David” and went to the Uffizi.  Luckily, none of the three musketeers “love” art history, so we went through it quickly.  We found Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and da Vinci’s Adoration of the Magi.  After that, we went to climb the 463 steps of the Duomo. When we got there, we thought it was closed.  I swear I thought I would cry, but we saw that people were still walking around the top, so we kept looking and we found the entrance! Ashley wimped out on us.  The climb was incredible and the view was spectacular! I am so glad we did it.  The stairs wound and wound and wound.  The top offered a great view of Florence.  Also, we were able to walk a circle inside the basilica, so we could see the frescoes up close.  They were huge!  We met a nice worker at the top named Carlo.  I loved the climb!  We walked and shopped.  Finally, we ate dinner at the exact same shop as last night! Then, Jennifer and Ashley got gelato.  (chocolate & amaretto and biscotti & caramel)  I tasted both but still didn’t brave my own.  Tomorrow is a bus ride through Tuscany!


March 15, 2007

After breakfast this morning, we boarded the bus bound for the ancient walled city of Siena.  Our tour guide, “Marguerite with the red shoes” led us on a tour, beginning with the baptistery and Duomo.  She explained about the various frescoes.  It had a very distinctive look with its black and white zebra stripes.  Inside San Domenico, she told us the story of St. Catherine, who as a child survived the plague and began having visions of Jesus by age 8.  She experienced stigmata and performed miracles.  She convinced the Pope to come back to Rome.  Her skull and one of her fingers (complete with skin and fingernails) is still there.  Siena is divided into 17 contrada or districts, each represented by an animal.  The districts are very competitive with one another.  They compete in a race called the Palio where they ride horses bareback.  There are no rules, so the horses can finish without their jockeys.  The prize is a silk flag with the likeness of Mary on it.  In the Palazzo Pubblico, we saw lots of frescoes, including one where one wall represented good government and the other bad government.  I was really disappointed that we didn’t have a chance to climb the tower, but we were in a terrible rush.  We re-boarded the bus, this time for an even more ancient city with many walls and towers—San Gimignano.  This city was full of hills surrounded by tall walls.  The exterior was very plain but I found it very beautiful.  You felt as if you’d stepped right into the Middle Ages.  The towers themselves date to the 12th and 13th centuries.  Inside the Collegiata, the walls told the entire story of the Bible with frescoes of the Old Testament on one side and the New Testament on the other.  When we came out of the church, we had free time.  The tour guide told us to keep the well (cisterna) on our left but Jennifer and I stopped to dump her camera to CD and get some t-shirts and we took a wrong turn on the way out.  We ended up walking all the way out of the city!  We turned around and saw Dr. Foley (lost, too!) and the three of us found our way back.  Oh, yes, and when we first stopped, we had to use the toilets which were just holes in the ground!  We took pictures! Ha!

Tonight, Jennifer and I had dinner at a great restaurant near the “fake David.”  It was called Il something and was next to the Il David.  It had incredible vegetable soup and spaghetti with red sauce.  Jennifer had a mixed salad and a seafood/rice dish.  We hadn’t been sitting long when the waiter seated Carrie and Matt right next to us.  Matt had the biggest beer I’ve ever seen.  We went for gelato next and I managed to find the only bad flavor in all of Italy. LOL.  It looked like strawberry shortcake, but it tasted like eggnog.  I dumped mine on a corner and had a few bites of Jennifer’s.  She knows hot to pick great flavors.  Back at the hotel, we decided to take our little bottle of chiante and our toothbrush glasses up to the roof of the hotel.  I had read about the patio in the hotel welcome kit, but I could not believe the beautiful view of the Duomo!  We had to get the Foleys to uncork our bottle, so they came up with us.  We called Ashley, who couldn’t find the way up.  She ended up talking to us and poking her fingers through an air vent on the roof.  She was saying “Open the door at your feet!”  It was absolutely hilarious.  We stayed up there laughing, talking and drinking for about an hour and a half.  It was so much fun! It was the perfect way to say good-bye to Florence.


March 16, 2007

This morning we left the Tuscany area for Umbria.  The first site was Perugia, where we saw a 13th century fountain—Fontana Maggiore.  Next, we saw the Duomo, which held a ring that was said to belong to Mary.  (mother of Jesus)  It was behind a shrine that is checked four times daily by guards, so we couldn’t see it.  After Perugia, we went to Assissi, which was beautiful.  Our tour guide had arranged for all of us to have lunch at a cafeteria.  I had a cheese sandwich and fruit.  Some people went way overboard.  One girl in particular had 3 main courses and 2 magnum bars!  She literally had one in each hand and took alternating bites.  I felt nauseous just looking at her.  After lunch, we started our walk up.  (Both towns were situated on hill tops.)  We started in a square where birds made of some sort of white stone were strung in the air.  We went to the Basilica di Santa Chiara. (St. Clare)  She was the founder of the Poor Clares, an order of nuns who shave their heads as a sign of humility.  (a la Britney Spears?! LOL)  When we went inside, the tour guide had us sit in the pews, but he didn’t say anything.  I had the most overwhelming sense of peace and I felt compelled to pray.  Eerily, when we finally did move on, we passed by a prayer that used many of the same words I had used in my personal prayer.  I was a bit stunned by that.  Next, we went to the Basilica di San Francesco (St. Francis).  St. Francis had a special relationship with animals.  One story that is corroborated by many monks is the one where they were trying to pray but the birds were too loud.  St. Francis told them to be quiet and they were.  The ones on the ground even bowed down to him.  His is also said to have experienced the stigmata, bleeding from the five wounds for the last 2 years of his life.  Inside the church were incredible frescoes depicting the life and miracles of St. Francis.  Also, there were stained glass windows that were the oldest in all of Italy.  Unfortunately, some of the church and town were badly damaged in the earthquake in 1997.  Downstairs, we passed the tomb of St. Francis, as well as a display of his robes.  The bus didn’t show up to meet us at the designated location, so Mr. Austin went to find him.  Ashley, Jennifer, Mrs. Foley (Mary Ellen), and I passed the time chit-chatting.  We’re now on the bus bound for Rome.  Mrs. Sieber read us a passage from the travel guide regarding the perils of traffic in Rome and how not to get killed crossing the street.  Tonight is one of our “planned” dinners.  It’s a surprise because we don’t know what it will be. (duh!) The dinner was so much fun!  The Foleys sat with us.  We had pasta, swordfish, and an amazing apple dessert.  The funny thing is that I went to the bar to get a glass of wine for me and a beer for Jenn.  When I got back to the table, she had ordered a bottle of wine—a Brunello.  She had no idea it would be E60!!!  It was embarrassing but hilarious. (and very tasty, too)


March 17, 2007

Today was a full day of sight-seeing in Rome.  Our tour guide, Fedora (I think), showed us all the sites, starting with the Vatican Museum.  There were incredible sculptures, busts, tapestries, frescoes, and paintings.  The “map” room had a great ceiling.  All of this was just a pre-cursor to the dramatic Sistine Chapel.  Michelangelo’s masterpiece was pretty amazing.  Fedora told us that the skin that is hanging down in the painting on the side wall is a likeness of Michelangelo himself.  A man who was friends with the Pope made a negative comment about the work, so Michelangelo used the man’s face as the man guarding the gates of hell, being squeezed by a large snake. Hehe!  The Pope never paid Michelangelo for his work, so he could barely afford the colors.  Ash, Jenn, and I all snapped photos as inconspicuously as we could.  (I don’t even know what I shot.  I just stuck my camera out.)  Ashley accidentally used flash.  Calligula took several pics, I’m sure.  Some of the teenyboppers had a hissy fit.  Jordan told on Calligula later tonight, which made me feel guilty enough to confess to Professor Shaw, who actually hadn’t seen us at all. (I’m a goof!)  After the chapel, we saw St. Peter’s Basilica, completed around 349AD by Emperor Constantine.  The dome was designed by Michelangelo but wasn’t finished during his lifetime.  An amazing gold bronze canopy stands 66 ft. tall and was designed by Bernini.  Outside, in the St. Peter’s Plaza, Fedora showed us the window where the Pope appears on Sundays.  Next, came the Castel St. Angelo, Court of Justice, Arch of Titus, Spanish Steps, Arch of Constantine, the Roman Forum, the Coloessuem (incredible& awe-inspiring), and Borghese Park. We had dinner in the hotel.  Tomorrow is our free day.


March 18, 2007

After breakfast, we took the bus into town.  Jenn, Ash and I went with Sissy and Kim (“Knoxville ladies”), Matt and Carrie, and the Austins to the Vatican.  They all went to mass at St. Peter’s, while Jenn, Ash, and I watched and rooted for the marathon runners.  It was cute to see how much they appreciated us cheering them on.  I bought some rosary beads which I held in my hand when the Pope came to his window to deliver his message at noon.  After that, we had lunch and went to Trevi Fountain.  This is where John and Marlena got married most recently on Days of Our Lives.  The fountain was huge and breathtakingly beautiful.  It made the one on DOOL look like a bird bath.  Jenn, Ash, and I climbed out onto the rocks around the fountain and had our picture made.  I threw four coins into the fountain.  (One means you’ll return to Rome. Two means you’ll get an Italian boyfriend or girlfriend. Three means you’ll get divorced. (?) Four means your secret wish will come true.)  Unfortunately, I didn’t know you were supposed to throw them over your left shoulder with your right hand.  I had just dropped them in, so I found one more coin and tossed it correctly.  Maybe I’ll get it right next time I’m in Rome. ☺ Next we walked to the Spanish Steps.  It was so crowded with seated tourists that it was unrecognizable! We headed for the 5pm bus rendezvous and stopped for gelato on the way.  I had caramel cream that was wonderful—heavenly even! We’re back at the hotel now.  We have a wake-up call at 1am and we have to get our bags out by 2:30am!! Yikes!  Tomorrow is going to be LONG and EXHAUSTING!  I am so read to go home.  It has been an incredible, once-in-a-lifetime trip and I’ve made some wonderful memories and two solid friendships, but I can’t wait to get home to my family, friends, my apartment, and my Stella!!

RANDOM FUNNIES

At the Colosseum--
Tourguide: “Javier, where you are?”

Jordan: Who’s this Madonna person? (as in every painting of Madonna & Gesú Bambino)

Lacee:  I’m in seat B09.
Other girl:  I’m B09. (gate #)

Stan:    I don’t know what we’re having.  It’s a surprise.

You can see the Irish in their blue, yellow, orange…I mean green.

Happy birthday, Brad, er Brent, uh..Brandon!

We may need a wheelchair for Rachel.  (Her name was Rebecca.)  His reasoning for the mistake:  They go way back. (meaning the Bible)  Rebecca’s response: No, we don’t. We don’t go back at all.

Me:  How many people can say they’ve seen the Pope?
Jenn:  Millions.

On the freezing cold bus:
Us:  We’re cold. Turn down the air!
Stan: Just hang looks about the temperature, folks.

Jennifer:  They have a lot of tabacchi shops. (She pronounced it toe-back-ee)

Matt:  What’s the deal with the Sistine Chapel and people being scared of Santa? (claustrophobic) harhar.

Lillie came up to us at the fancy restaurant next to the Il David, where Matt had an enormous beer. She said “Wow, is that white wine?”  He deadpanned “Yeah, a liter.” I still don’t know if she realized he was pulling her leg!

Uses for the bedet:
Sara Sieber uses it to wash her feet.
Ron Foley pees in it.
I think the towel is the perfect size for a face towel.